Xochimilco and pyramids.

Huge city and so much to see. Could easily stay a month and not see it all. Decided to see what I could get to by using the Metro rail system. The system is extensive and very cheap to use.

About twenty k's south is the 'floating gardens' of Xochimilco. Yeah right!!!.

Apparently Mexico city is built in a very wet depression surrounded by volcanic mountains. There was once swamps and lakes that became the wealth of the various civilisations that have lived there through utilisation of the water for agriculture. All that is left of that area is one hundred kilometres of channels that are heavily polluted. The channels are heritage listed but no one seems to care. Went south by train to look at that area. The channels are now used by people from Mexico city for recreation. Mmmmm a nice day on a punt cruising down a smelly channel - why doesn't everyone want to do it.

The streets in the vicinity were lined with stalls selling flowers and various plants so obviously the water is still being used.

Tried a Colectivo - They are mini buses that services most of Mexico. No time table, no set routes ( as far as I can tell ) and set set stops. Users seem to negotiate a destination and a price. Hopped on one and paid a couple of pesos and went a couple of blocks and got off. Now it is done but not a joyous experience.

Shirley´s tour group were not impressed. Most of the pyramids are 'reconstructed'. It was hot and dusty and that didn't help. They were pestered all day by beggars and vendors. Not seeing it though would be a bit like going to Egypt and not looking at the pyramids there.

Busy time but decided to have a look at a couple of museums. So much good stuff but downloaded a copy of images.

Met up with Shirley and her tour group in the evening and went out for dinner. We ended up at Sanbornes and I had crumbed veal cutlets. Typical Mexican fare - not. Had beans in every possible way it can be prepared and eaten so a change was good.

Mexico City

Restless sleep because all the guide books recommend not to drive in Mexico city especially ride motorcycles. Figured if I got up early on a Sunday morning and tried then it would be easier.

Did that and it was the traffic was down to stalled instead of gridlocked.

Worked my way toward the centre of town when I saw a group of about fifty bikers at a Pemex service station. Stopped to double check my whereabouts. The guy I approached said - Stop talking and follow us. They took off at warp speed weaving through the traffic and I tried to keep up but only did so for about four kilometres before dropping back.

After that though it was almost as if the bike was on rails because I ended up exactly at the hotel where I wanted to stay one block from the zocalo. Arrived a 8.30am.

Spent the day looking around the centro historica area.

Police Mounted branch - what a broad brimmed hat. If they issue cops with those they will need bigger cars.

Two senorita police officers helping the tourists.

Crowds like you have never seen. Amongst all that there is some vehicle traffic trying to weave their way through the Sunday walkers.

Right in the centre of town there was an archaeologist dig. They unearthed what they think is the original spot where the priests said to start a city. You know the story about the bird with a snake in its beak perched on a cactus.

Apparently the Spaniards knocked down most indigenous temples and built the Churches and plazas with the stone but this small area was discovered when electricians found a huge round craved stone.

The guy with the bowl in his hand has seen more heart surgery than thirty modern day heart surgeons. Apparently records of the period show that twenty thousand were sacrificed (hearts torn from chests) over a three day period.

Shirley arrived at Mexico airport to start her Peregrine tour. Surprised her because she was not expecting me to be there. Peregrine failed to show and pick her up. Contacted them and they told her to get a taxi to her hotel and they would refund the cost. Not good enough but the rest of the tor group were out having dinner.

Turned out that her hotel was about four hundred metres from mine but much more up market.

We met up with the rest of her tour group and took the opportunity to catch up.

Corrupt policeman????

Started in an interesting fashion. Pulled up by a Municipal Policeman. He claimed I was speeding and wanted to see my licence. All local traffic was passing me and I definitely was not speeding.

The corrupt cop MO (modus operandi) was - Oh shit you are foreign what a shame. Your licence I will put in my pocket for safe keeping. Now there are all sorts of problems associated with you speeding and being foreign but I might be able to fix it up even though I shouldn't. Perhaps $1400 pesos ($100USD) paid to me now will fix everything. If not I will drive away with your licence.

Kept smiling and not understanding and treating him as a buddy. Showed him a couple of photos one of which happened to be of me in uniform with a police car in the background. When he saw that he became angry but gave my licence back and drove off.

What a shame. What amused me was that as his new best buddy he allowed me to still take a photo of him?????

Rode on to a small town about twenty odd kilometres outside Mexico city - Tepotzotlan.

Looks down over Mexico and local day trippers use it as a place to get away. Nice little town.
Once again the sense of community and social gathering was evident.

San Luis Potosi

Cactus covered country as far as you care to look. It is a huge industry in the area apparently. Stopped at one of the many stalls at the side of the roadway. Wanted to take photos but the stall owner wanted me to buy. Asking how much he relied by holding up two fingers so I assumed it was two pesos each. He reached under his counter and brought out a bag containing peeled prickly pears that must have weighed two kilos. Yes they were for me and it cost two pesos (about twenty cents).

Arrived in San Luis Potosi late and got a room in a hotel about two hundred metres from the bull fighting arena. Not going to a bull fight for reasons of principle.

Having freshened up I went out into the night looking for feed. My cook had a stall that was well patronised and she was going through a lot of food so it had to be fresh. If you wanted a feed you just sat down on the benches provided and you eventually got a plate of food. What I liked about her stall was that the main ingredients were vegetables. Had not seen those for a couple of days and was craving them.

This city is a university city and there were heaps of young people about. All looking like Americans but there were other traditional activities going on.

Took some photographs of musicians and singers who were working the streets.

Durango

Durango is like the other towns and cities I have been to has a zocalo (town plaza) or sometimes called centro historica. Without doubt you will find a church but at these places the Spanish legacy is evident.

During the heat of mid-day everything seems to close and then opens again mid-afternoon until late. When I say late shops were open at mid-night.

Durango apparently is very dangerous place because of the political disquiet but I saw none of that. There were army check points on the outskirts. I have been checked a few times now and They wave me through as soon as they realise that I am a tourist.

The area surrounding Durango is cattle country and the locals I saw tend to dress like cowboys. Boots, hats and pick up trucks are big in this area.

My hotel was right on the zocalo and it was recommended by Lonely Planet ( first one of theirs that I have tried). Cannot complain about the location but the hotel was in need of a bit of tender loving care. No where to secure my bike so I asked the non English speaking receptionist if I could park it in the foyer. He did not say NO so I rode it through the front doors. The manager came out but was surprising happy about the situation. Later he was showing the bike off to a couple of mates.

Went out into the zocalo and wandered around the streets checking things out. Whole families come out and just wander around, eat and socialise.

The street vendors come out in force as well. They sell corn corn cooked on hot coals and other food stuffs. I tried something in bread. I think it was meat with a heap of chili on it.

The roads are good so I have not had any trouble finding my way around until I reach to cities and towns. The street signage in the built up areas is very poor. The roads narrow and usually one way and the way I don´t want to go.

Durango has three huge plazas that I found. I got a hotel overlooking the Plaza Aramas. Once again a bargain but again it is very run down.

Copper Canyon to Hidalgo del Parral

Exciting, exhilerating and white knuckle day. It was a big with all the riding. The canyon was more than I expected. At one stage I didn´t see anyone else for about an hour. The place was empty except for me.

It was my intention to camp in the canyon for a couple of days but.... I couldn´t help but think about what John Kiely would have thought. It is a bush walkers and photgraphers paradise. Also would have been interesting to see Mick Rentsch throw the bike around. Grandpa Stanley just took his time.

There are a lot of signs to Indian Misssions. Apparently the Catholic Church is doing a good job with them. Saw a few and was hoping to take photos but the were very shy and not socialable at all. Suppose they have been abused for years and they would be more forthcoming once they had a chance to assess my intentions.

Reached the township of Hilalgo De Parral. The towns are like rabbit warrens and it took me a while to get the centre. The centre is usually where a plaza is situated. Got a room in a hotel right next to the plaza.



Seventeen dollars for the room. The fittings are old and the rooms could do with bit of a touch up but for the price.

Found a restaurant that looked decent and stared dumbly at the menu. Roberto the waiter spoke better english than I do. Real keen on America and thought I was American until I told him otherwise. He brought me a heap of food and then gave me the bill that I knew was wrong but he insisted was right. Must have been half price night.

Walked the streets looking at the shops that stay open late everynight. They close for a few hours over lunch.
Jason, my son, has always wanted a pair of crocodile boots. They had them together with ostrich and snake. No where to put them mate. Most are bit over the top but some were nice. This is ranch, horse and cattle country. Huge leather industry here. Churchs everywhere and the people are practicing catholics.

Creel

Every day gets better. Headed towards Barranca Del Cobre (Copper Canyon). The scenery is now spectacular and the road just as good as the others I have travelled on if not better.

My destination reached - the township of Creel at an alititude of 2338 metres. It is the gateway to the canyon.



The canyon is four times bigger than the Grand Canyon in Arizona and it is deeper.

So far I have climbed and desended the fllowing mountains (Sierras) San Luis, El Medio, El Escaparate, America, Grande, La Santarina and Charamuscas. More to come but the best tomorrow when I descend into the canyon. The drop is 1800 metres and the ascent is the same on the other side.

One of the few trains still running in Mexico is the tourist train that skirts the rim of the canyon. The tracks run right through the town.

The Lonely Planet book said that the town is filled with tourists and they can be seen congregating in the plaza. Well I was the only tourist in town. When the train went throught it was empty.

Start of the Sierra Madre Occidental mountain range

Beautiful weather still. Waited in town for the banks to open so I could get some more pesos (dollars). Waited in a queue for twenty minutes only to be told that this particular bank does not exchange cash notes. Went to Banamex which appears to be the biggest and they gave me what I wanted.

The roads I have chosen to use are the slow way to get around but they are the roads less travelled. I headed towards Cuautemoc again through the mountains. Everything I experienced yesterday was surpassed. The road was great and the scenery just terrific.

Everyone I stopped to talk to for drinks, meals, fuel or just rest my saddle sore arse were very friendly and only to happy to help.



Met a young cowboy who wanted to show me his horse - so I took his photo. He seemed pleased.

Creel Indians (Tarahumara) on the streets begging. Approached by what I think is a group of three generations of a family. They
wanted money so I gave them a few peso in exchange for a photograph.

Arrived at Cuautemoc very late as it took me all day to travel three hundred kilometres.

Looked for the best hotel again - same price. Went to a restaurant and had a steak. "Biftek" rancho is not grilled steak fillet as I thought. They guy on the table next to me was kind enough to help me with the menu.